Hatcher’s Stories; Making Syrup: Episode Eighteen
January 29th, 2009Cane syrup was an important part of the Southern diet in Hatcher’s youth, and even when I was growing up, many years later. My mother, Willie Lou, would make a big batch of buttermilk biscuits every morning, which, with butter and syrup, was breakfast for the family. She did occasionally add bacon, grits, and eggs to the menu, but biscuits were essential unless we were having pancakes, which was rare.
We bought our syrup ready-made, but in Hatcher’s day, making syrup was a community activity, and people brought the sugar cane they had grown to the neighborhood mill, where a mule turned the press to squeeze out juice for the kettle.
Once, when I was a kid, some enterprising folk set up a traveling cane mill in a lot downtown and drew quite a crowd. They weren’t making syrup as I recall, but I do remember that they were selling chunks of peeled cane, which were eaten like candy bars by those who liked it–I didn’t, particularly. You bit off a chunk and chewed till you had all the juice out, and then spit out the “pummy,” the fibrous residue that Hatcher mentioned. They were also selling cane juice fresh from the press, turned, as in Hatcher’s day, by a mule.
I was curious about the word “pummy,” which Hatcher also used in reference to the pulp that was left after they squeezed the juice out of citrus fruit at the canning plant. It seems it was used in parts of England as the name for the pulp that was left after squeezing the juice out of apples.
(In the titles, I showed his birth year as 1921, which is actually Willie Lou’s birth year. Hatcher was born in 1916.)